Ride With Friends: Chapter 3

Ride With Friends: Chapter 3

VICINITY2

 

My feelings about work travel are equivocal. On one hand I get to travel to locations that are cycling legend. I spend my visits discussing bikes and those who love them, digging into the technical and emotional aspects of a thing that is dear to me. I ride over roads momentarily packed with thousands of fans whose ghosts I can hear cheering me upward. Or rather, I buck photo equipment and oversized bags of snacks up steep Pyrenean slopes in the hot sun while the photo crew, skeptical cows and borrowed neo-pro talent traverse the same segments of beautiful view over and over again.

 

22PERCENT

 

MATUREMEAT

 

That’s right. I travel halfway around the world to the epicenter of cycling only to frequently be denied by the glass window of “look but don’t touch.” It’s a work trip, after all, and there isn’t time for fun. Hop back on the plane, fly home and miss another several days of riding while I readjust to a different world and a pesky new timezone. Just as my lingering cold dissipates and I begin to feel at home, it’s time to start planning the next visit. Nobody feels sympathy for someone who travels to Spain for work and eyes glaze when I explain there’s so much I don’t have time to enjoy. I know what they are thinking about: the cool stuff that I haven’t made time to do. And I realized it was time to go deeper.

 

VICINITY1

 

KM100

 

This April was different. Longer, because I opted to roll two trips into one four-week adventure. More stressful, because I was commuting and working in the office during one of the most hectic times of the year. My daily 45 minute drive took me right under the Guggenhiem, out of bustling Bilbao straight into a busy workplace of looming deadlines and endless distraction. But between the floorboards of work I frequently found the cracks where I could disappear for a few hours and make up those rides and activities I had missed over the years.

 

VICINITY3

 

VICINITY4&5

 

I played tourist for days and saw the sights that were hidden in plain view. I played local for a few more and sweated on Basque climbs I have only read about. I gave a personal bike tour of my favorite ride in San Sebastian to visiting Lithuanians and I made new friends.

 

LITHUANIANS

 

RAINPLAIN

 

In a strange switch that I suppose I could have anticipated, my rides with friends were the short ones, sneaked in during lunches or before meetings. The longer weekend vueltas that I would normally arrange with buddies here in the US were my times to decompress and explore. Workmates spent valuable Saturday mornings with families as I slipped out the door of my 6th floor flat in the heart of Bilbao, a destination in mind with no clue how to get there. Cyclists have a special ability—we read maps differently than other people. We tease out the mid-weight lines indicating secondary routes. Darker green areas aren’t towns, we go there. City streets are for Cokes and croissants, we definitely add a few on any worthy ride, but we are searching for Those Roads. We look for the sinuous turns standing apart from other strokes and dashes that indicate noteworthy climbs. We know those roads will have names painted on them.

 

IGELDO

 

EMERANDO

 

CORTADO

 

The Basque Country is dominated with mountains but not the sort of 45 minute climbs that you can really sink your teeth into. These are largely short, punchy-to-savage and plentiful. It was only towards the end of my trip that I discovered the moderate terrain between Bilbao and Gernika. I spent four magical hours exploring, dodging warm rain showers, taking in the sweet baking odor of grasses drying in the sudden sun, taking no wrong turns. Farm fields and excellent time-trial roads gave way to six-percent grades winding into the hills between me and the Atlantic. Twisting climbs perched on rocky oceanside cliffs, tiny villages nestled in coves and welcome big-ring rollers dotted the coast.

 

ARKALANDA

 

BAAW

 

Wrapping up my ride along the Nervion River heading back into the heart of the city, I stopped for coffee and recounted my ride. At about 90 minutes in, I was happily noting this was one of the best rides in recent memory. By 150 I was reasoning with myself—I have ridden a lot of places, but this ride is better than just “among the best.” Drinking a Cortado after four hours of flawless route selection and fairytale views I reached a certainty—if I had done rides that were just as beautiful and fulfilling but I couldn’t remember them immediately then by default this must surely have been the best ride ever. And so, it was.

 

ALLTHECARBS

 

ARRATE

 

May is past, June is filled with more trips and I am starting to feel the pressure to Ride With Friends. To date I have ridden with 27 people. The number looks small to me considering my lofty goals. But my requirements are stringent – I am only counting rides of an hour or more and I am only considering rides with several people if we all have time to actually talk more than in passing. So that means 27 real connections when ordinarily I might have ridden with the same five or six people all summer. At this rate, to think I might ride with a good portion of my 300 or so Facebook friends seems wishful thinking. But I will keep working on it!

 

VICINITY6

 

About Me—I grew up all over the southwestern US, never spending too much time in any one location. Now I count driving around and checking shit out as perhaps my favorite pastime behind work and riding. I am a creative director at Orbea Bicycles and consider myself lucky because the company is more like a family than a job and, also, because Spain (duh!) I have made lasting friendships with folks at Challenge TiresCastelli CyclingEnve CompositesKali Protectives andRace Face that keep my cycling fun, sexy and purposeful with their incomparable gear. Thanks to Padraig and Red Kite Prayer for prompting me to expand this idea, and thank you for reading. The selected images and many others can be viewed on instagram under the hashtag #jmhridewithfriends or in my profile @jmhstagram.

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4 comments

  1. John Borstelmann

    Wow! I’ve been riding a sweet Orbea Orca Gold for three years now. I love the ride and the cred, the employee-owned company, the quality bikes. I’ve long wanted to ride in the Basque country, even more now seeing these pictures and reading your story.

    1. Jordan Hukee

      John, I just met a fellow and his wife on my last trip who are organizing a custom tour/experience company called Basque Country Cycling… http://kili.bike/ Take a look! Like any tour, I am sure it’s pretty costly but I imagine it would be unforgettable. The roads are lovely and the food isn’t bad either. =)

  2. Grego

    Those are some lovely photos, Jordan, but the artificial vignetting is DRIVING ME MAD. Just stop it and let the images speak for themselves!

  3. Michael

    I know what you mean about going to incredible places and then working all the time so you don’t really get to see them. Recently, as my daughter is older and so it is not so bad for me to be gone longer, I have been tacking on some time to trips to play for a day or two. That and having a coupler bike and working with Europeans who take the weekends off, leaving me time to play, has worked out well! The Basque country is gorgeous, and lots of other pretty country all along the Pyrenees. If you stay close to the coast, you can get fish instead of having heavy meat all the time.

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