Wheelbuilder Enve 3.4 Wheels

Of all the technological endeavors within cycling, the research and development being poured into new wheel designs has been run on more CFD software, used more wind tunnel time has attracted more talent than any other. So why are wheels such a hot area of interest? Well the simple answer is that no other component on the bike has realized aerodynamic gains as readily as wheels. Of all the component on a bike, no other has the capacity for gains that wheels do. Carbon fiber gives engineers a palette limited only by imagination and Asian manufacturing is plentiful enough that one can find a ready and willing partner for manufacturing.

But making a great set of wheels is more than just carbon fiber and aerodynamics. There are hubs to consider, spokes, lacing and even tension. Get any one of these wrong and your wheels will need attention after each and every ride. It’s not enough to be serviceable; a good wheel must be able to be ridden day after day without need for attention. Reliability, then, can be said to be of equal importance to all other considerations.

I’ve ridden close to a dozen different wheel sets in the last year. The single most recurring issue I’ve experienced are wheels that don’t stay true. If I can go through the first three rides on a set of wheels without needing to touch them up, I’m amazed. Now, that might seem like a high bar to pass, but I learned 20 years ago that a wheel brought into true under very low tension and then gradually brought up to tension is much more likely to stay true because of even tension on the spokes. Unequal tension on spokes is the killer, and all you need to do to test for tension on spokes is to tap each of the spokes with a screwdriver—a fancy tensiometer is not required. If you hear the same ting, ting, ting, ting as you tap each spoke, the tension is consistent. Wheels that were brought up to tension before they were perfectly true (both laterally and vertically) will ting, tang, tong—you get the picture. Pitch has a direct relationship to tension. Now, back to that need to touch up a set of wheels: If a set of wheels is brought into true at low tension, and then gradually brought up to tension, the wheels won’t go through that equalization period that often sees wheels move a bit once they are ridden. They’ll be as true following ten rides as they are following one.

Fundamentally, this is an argument for hand-built wheels.

Which is what brings us to Wheelbuilder. Based here in Southern California, Wheelbuilder gives you all the selection you might ever hope for with your local bike shop, the in-stock levels only available with the Internet and the skill of a crew of guys who do nothing but build wheels all day. Of course, they are an Internet retailer which carries a certain pejorative, but the knock against online merchants was always that they undercut the prices of local bike shops. Wheelbuilder’s business model is pretty different. You pick the rim, the spokes and the hubs, plus any other accessories you might need and then they build the wheels to your specs and ship them to you; start-to-finish, the process can takes days depending on the shipping option you choose. If choosing what kind of spokes and nipples is a bit more Commander Data than you want to go, it’s easy enough to call them for some guidance.

The wheels I rode were Enve 3.4 tubular rims laced to a PowerTap rear hub and a Chris King front hub. They glued up a set of Vittoria CX tubulars, so out of the box, all I had to do was install a cassette and skewers and I was ready to go. According to Wheelbuilder’s wheel-weight calculator, these things were a remarkable 1565 grams. That’s a pretty stunning weight considering there is a PowerTap hub, and it isn’t even CycleOps lightest model. As I like to say, neat trick.

Enve’s SES rims were designed in conjunction with Simon Smart, an aerodynamicist known for his work in Formula 1, and having designed Giant’s Trinity and Scott’s Foil. To the degree that any aerodynamicist might be a household name to a bunch of skinny guys with odd tan lines, Smart’s is it. Enve is emphatic that while their SES (Smart Enve System) rims were introduced shortly after Zipp’s Firecrest design was unveiled, they are not a copycat design. Like Firecrest, they are wide and feature a rounded design that comes from treating the spoke bed as a second leading edge, rather than as a trailing edge. As proof, in our meeting at PressCamp Enve’s Jason Schiers pointed out that rim development takes longer than the scant months that passed between the debuts of Firecrest and SES. Unlike Firecrest, SES rims are front- and rear-specific. In the case of the 3.4s the front rim is 35mm deep while the rear is 45mm deep (hence the 3.4 name). The front rim has an outer width of 26mm, while the rear was 24mm wide.

Schiers stressed that there was another important difference between SES and Firecrest. It’s their opinion that Firecrest can be a bit unpredictable in handling in crosswinds. Their desire was to have a wheel that responded to crosswinds in a very predictable and progressive fashion. So while a front 3.4 rim experiences more steering input in a crosswind than a box rim, it’s still not as much as a traditional deep-section wheel.

There’s another aspect of tension that has a bearing on wheel longevity. High tension is important because it prevents rider/bike weight from cycling spoke tension down to zero when the spoke passes the 6 o’clock position. That’s where a spoke’s tension is lowest and if a spoke is de-tensioned sufficiently (it doesn’t have to be all the way to zero), the nipple will begin to loosen. This bad. A wheel built with high tension prevents this from happening. But high tension is no panacea. It comes with its own set of problems. The wheel builder in question must be skilled and a wheel built with high tension has an even greater need for uniformity of tension because problems with high tension cause more noticeable problems. Overdo tension and you can break rims and nipples, or just shorten their lifespan to less than a season.

What I’ve been leading up to is that these wheels I received from Wheelbuilder were possibly the best-built set of wheels I’ve encountered in the last several years. I don’t have six months of riding on them (less than two months, in fact), so I don’t have the ability to report on long(er)-term durability, but I can say that the day I packed them up to go back, I spun each wheel on my truing stand and they were every bit as true as when I received them. I wish that was the case for more wheels I ride.

If ever I had doubted Zipp’s claims about Firecrest, the 3.4 rims would have put those doubts down like a lame horse. They were remarkably stable in crosswinds, and like the 303s felt more like a box rim in windy conditions than deep section wheels. I most liked these wheels on hilly rides, when having a light rim is helpful for accelerating the wheel following steep ramps on a climb. We’ve got a lot of climbs near me that don’t do Colorado-style consistent 5 percent grades. No, around here you’ll have a good 8 percent section followed by 100 feet of 13 percent and then a few hundred meters of 6 percent. Being able to accelerate once the pitch goes down is as important as eating while you’re on the bike.

Most of all, these wheels are fast. It was on descents that the extra speed was most apparent. Because an aerodynamic wheelset’s advantage increases as your speed increases, I noticed that on descents I was often entering turns with higher-than-anticipated speed. I braked on a few turns that I don’t normal tap the stoppers on. They were also really helpful on group rides any time I needed to stick my nose in the wind.

I took these wheels down some of Malibu’s home-wrecker descents (there can be hell to pay when someone goes down here) and melted neither rim nor glue. Whew. I’ll add that I was so impressed with the braking performance of the 3.4 rims that I’d really love to ride the carbon clincher version. These rims rival Zipps’ rims for braking consistency and power, so similar are they to traditional aluminum rims.

Now for the shoe to drop. These wheels are, to use a Southernism, “dear.” At $3080, they are more expensive than many good bikes. That’s about all I’ve got to say on the price. If it seems to you like that’s crazy money, well then it probably is. If it just seems like you need to take your sweet one out for the weekend before mentioning you’d like to pick a set of these up, well then bully for you. And if you’re asking the question just who is good enough to deserve these wheels, well then you’re missing the point.

Marketing materials indicate what a company values in telling it’s story. Wheelbuilder spends more time discussing the building of wheels and what goes into a good wheel than anyone else out there, but marketing materials are no substitute for good work. Again, my experience with Wheelbuilder’s build quality is limited, but during the time I had, I was impressed.

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23 comments

  1. Doug Page

    I SO agree with you about handbuilt wheels. I still ride a wheel I built in the late 70’s. I seldom need to true any wheel I have built. Not that I am that gifted. I just take my time and bring the tension up gradually, exactly as you described.
    I’m afraid “envy” is as close as I will ever come to riding on the Enve wheels.
    I’m waiting to invest in carbon road wheels until the disc brake tech allows road clinchers to be built without braking surfaces on the rim.
    Of course this will entail a disc-ready road frame as well.
    I have a disc monstercross now, and other than minor modulation issues, it works quite well.


    1. Author
      Padraig

      SWells: As these wheels were headed out for a review, the folks at Wheelbuilder threw in an extra dash of service. I wasn’t suggesting that’s a normal part of their offerings. And frankly, under normal circumstances, I don’t let anyone glue tires for me.

  2. Scott G.

    For $3k I would expect 1 year of team car support.
    I’d gladly spend another $200 for full set of spokes,
    and have some hope of riding home after breaking a spoke.
    {snark off}

  3. Souleur

    your spoiled ‘rotten’ to add a Southernism in there, Padraig

    If your bar is to have a wheelset pass 3 rides without retensioning or retruing…your very generous to whomever built those wheels, as I flat out would be upset and disappointed.

    Its absolute, that handbuilt wheels are the way to go, and perhaps that is why my bar is high. Its my expectation that a true set of hoops may only need touched by the masters hand ‘maybe’ once every 3 months. Out of the box, almost all my Mavic goods have met this, and my zipps are very very good.

    and to relieve you of any burdens of the excess wheels, you can just send your extra hoops out my way, I would be glad to help


    1. Author
      Padraig

      Souleur: Hand-built wheels are no cure-all. It’s true the best wheels I’ve ever ridden were hand built, but that’s not a guarantee they will stay true. As to me being spoiled, three rides is a threshold worth discussing. I’ve spent an entire season on wheels I built with no touch-ups. If a set of wheels can’t pass three rides without needing to be trued, then they aren’t worth mentioning in terms of build quality.

  4. TV@VT

    I’ve had two sets of wheels built up by Wheelbuilder. Both used alloy rims and Sapim CX Ray spokes on DA hubs I sent them. One pair with Mavic OP rims was bought in 2006. Another pair with DT 1.1 rims was bought a year later. I’ve never had to true them. I’m still using the DT-rimmed set. I took apart the OP set this spring to try out some HED C2 Belgian rims. The OP rims were starting to creak. But the wheels were still perfectly true.

    I would have had the HED wheelset built up by Wheelbuilder, but they didn’t have the rims I wanted in stock. But they’re still my first choice in custom hand builts. Highly recommended.

    But, but… speaking of “dear” – I think really good handbuilts are pretty pricey these days. They’re no bargain.

  5. Jonathan

    Just a note that hand-built wheels don’t need to cost the earth, unless you really want them to.
    I have a set of DT 1.1 rims to circus monkey hubs, with DT competition spokes: total cost including build was A$350. Admittedly the hubs aren’t top shelf, and they’re not fancy-schmancy aero rims a-la enve or zipp, but they’re light and bombproof.

  6. Neil

    Wheels are the biggest, most fragile moving part of the bike, so they should cost as much as everything else. Like a wine with dinner, it should be the same price as the food. Otherwise, you’re just fooling yourself with cheap plonk.

  7. Tom

    I get what Neil is saying but his argument is . . . well, there’s a significant up-charge on wine in any eating establishment. The “g00d” wine can be had significantly cheaper (even with a corking fee). I digress . . .

    Padraig, I knew what the outcome of this review was before I read it. Enve + handbuilt = awesome. It’s a testament to Enve/Edge that “everyone” seems to like their products (hbar, stem, seatpost, wheels, stickers, etc)

    What I wish I had read was an article directly comparing a set of machine-built “regular guy” hoops to a comprable set of Wheelbuilder.com hoops (insert ergottwheels.com, youngwheels.com, troy ligero–if he still laces hoops, etc).

    I’d also like to see a legit review of the cheaper brands out there (Williams, Boyd, etc. ). Yeah, the rims come from open molds (I know they’re not faster than Enve, Zipp, etc) but at least Boyd laces his hoops up by hand–maybe its a team of hands now.

    Someone out there is asking, “I know deep section wheels are faster than traditional but how does El-Cheapo stack up to El-Spensive outside of a wind tunnel and under a mere-mortal’s ass?”

    You did a review of a pair of mid-level kicks. How bout a review of a mid-level set of hoops?


    1. Author
      Padraig

      Tom: While you may have known the outcome of the review before reading it, I really didn’t. I’ve got almost no experience with Enve products and I have ridden a passel of “hand built” wheels that began coming out of true after the first ride. I needed to ride them to find out what I thought.

      As to a shootout of “regular guy” wheels to some other high-end wheels, I can say, categorically, it won’t happen. I did plenty of shootout reviews at a previous gig. As it turns out, when you pit one product against another, someone loses. And after they lose, they call you and you get an earful about how you don’t know what you’re doing and they’ll never advertise with you ever again and they hope cats eat your eyeballs out. I need enemies like I need my kid to starve.

      Perhaps this will help—here’s a review I did for BKW of some deep-section carbon wheels by Neuvation:
      http://www.belgiumkneewarmers.com/2008/06/neuvation-c50-carbon-tubular-wheels.html

  8. Gregg Stern

    P
    Just bought a set of 3.4 Smart/ Enve built on DT 180 hubs with aerolite spokes 20 radial front 24 2X rear built up by WHEELBULILDER.com.! Looking forward to them as my son in law is taking my ENVE 45’s .
    G


    1. Author
      Padraig

      Gdeardorff: These may be out of your price range and I accept that they are out of the price range of a great many buyers, but really, we ask that people try to contribute something constructive to the conversation here at RKP rather than venting retail outrage.

  9. gdeardorff

    Pedraig: you misinterpret my email. This is not retail outrage. I am just stating a fact that for most cyclists, $3000 for wheels is out of the question.


    1. Author
      Padraig

      Gdeardorff: You’re missing the point of the comments section. As you’re new, we’ll restate it for you: Keep it civil and constructive. You were plenty civil, but you really didn’t tell us anything we’re not already aware of. Still, high-quality gear is something that some of our readers can afford and plenty others find aspirational—”if I win the lottery I know the first thing I’m gonna buy.” It’s not necessary to have you attempt to rain on that parade.

  10. Brian

    I’m considering either a set of Enve 3.4s or Zipp 303s from Wheelbuilder. I’d be interested to hear your thoughts as to the positives and negatives of both (not a simple “which is better?”). I live in Colorado and will be using them as my primary wheel set for a combination of rolling hills and big mountain climbs. We do experience moderate to high winds quite frequently out here. Thank you!


    1. Author
      Padraig

      Brian: Years ago, back when I was an editor at Bicycle Guide, a reader called me and said he’d finally narrowed down his choice for his next frame to either a Peter Weigle or a Richard Sachs. I started laughing. He got nervous and wondered if he’d made an error. I told him, no, there was no error, that with the two options he was considering, he couldn’t fuck up.

      I rode the 3.4s in tubular, so I can’t make an apples to apples comparison. But what I can tell you is that you’re considering two really stellar options among carbon wheel sets. You’re going to be fine either way. When I do my best to read through the marketing bent of each company (and I acknowledge that I think there’s less spin with each of them than with some other companies), my sense is that the difference *might* be that the Enves handle a bit better while the Zipps are faster.

  11. Brian

    Thank you for getting back to me. It’s good to know that I’ve got it down to two top notch options. Based on your review it sounds as though Wheelbuilder may be a good choice as well. Once I get a set I’ll make another post with my impressions. Thanks again!

  12. Brian

    Well, they’re not from wheelbuilder but I do have a set of Firecrest 303 clinchers on the way. It all came down to what I could get the best deal on and I was able to get the Zipps for about 1k less. I’ll post some feedback once I have them and ridden them a few times. Thanks for your help and advice!

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