The Vision

The lower reaches of the Col de la Cayolle wind through a canyon carved by river.

When I left home my mind contained a vision. In it I was fit. I was ready. I was unencumbered by obstacles. I’d ride at threshold until 1km to go, whereupon I would bury the needle and arrive at the col marker out of the saddle and a little out of breath. I would descend with mad Formula 1 skills, drifting my bike around switchbacks and sitting up to eat pain au chocolat as I caught cars.

Sci-fi is fun, huh? The last two weeks of my life have been nothing like that. Nothing. Like. That.

Since Thursday or Friday of last week I’ve been dealing with pain from a nerve I pinched in my neck years ago—during a race, of course. The longer and harder I ride without a break, the worse it hurts and that pain isn’t like fatigue. No, it’s closely related to the sensation you’d experience if someone took a letter opener, heated it over an open flame and then drove it into your shoulder with the aid of a ball pen hammer. And while I arrived with good fitness, it’s one thing to be fit and it’s another to climb the Col de la Madeleine at threshold. I might as well try to drive from New York to San Francisco on a single tank of gas.

Eating and drinking on descents? Um, as it turns out, there’s rarely time enough to get a bottle out of the cage before another bend requiring at least a cursory touch of the brakes to keep me corralled to my side of the road. And just where you are in the road is a matter less of debate than one of logic. The safe assumption is that on an Alpine descent any approaching car will be in the middle of the road. Should you be near what would ordinarily be the lane line separating your lane from the lane of oncoming traffic, you would not fare well unless radical course corrections are among your core skills.

Turns came with such rapidity that I almost never used my 11t cog. I generally exited switchbacks in the 13t cog and would sometimes shift to the 12t if the straightaway was longer than 200 meters.

Drifting? Dude. I’ve been watching too many Fast and Furious movies. The closest I came to drifting was my failure to stop on a switchback that sent me shooting between two motorcycles coming up the mountain. On a scale of one to 10, my pucker factor was 36.

We caught and passed a group of Swiss riders who seemed less than enthused with our pace.

Thursday was our final hors categorie climb, the north side of the Col de la Cayolle. All 25km of it. I can say that the descent off either side is long enough to induce braking-caused hand pain. The climb to our hotel in Valberg wasn’t a big, memorable climb used in the Tour, which is to say it was still more than 12km long and took us to 2000 meters. Quite arguably a Category 1 climb.

For Friday, our next-to-last day of the tour, we took in three climbs. The first was less than six km but the other two were 14 and 15km, respectively. In 70 miles we climbed more than 7500 vertical feet. Somehow we managed to utterly miss showers that coated the region in dripping humidity.

The last big climb of the day was the Col de Turini. For those of you who follow the World Rally Championship, that name might be familiar. The Col de Turini is used in the Monte Carlo rally, which is run in January. Picture savoire faire Frenchman relaxedly drifting sideways through snowbanks with a thin rock wall separating them from the expanse of destiny while screaming crowds inch near the car traveling at speeds to high to be legal on freeways.

My experience might have been different from theirs and even my own imagination, but that day was visceral in a way theme parks can only dream.

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  1. Marco Placero

    At the end of an EPIC tour like yours Padraig, every climb is a Cat 1.
    Grazie for your dispatches. Having just today climbed and descended our local ‘TDF’ climb (15 miles at 5% from 1,400 ft. to 5,500 ft) I real-ated to your descent. Enjoy the Cote d’Azzuri!

  2. Big Col

    My cycling skills and fitness are so poor as to prevent any credible comments on your tour but many thanks for the opportunity to live vicariously through your exploits. Now back to lurking….

  3. Souleur

    Ethereal ride and thanks for including us off the back of the group. I don’t deserve a ride like this, but pray, just once…please Santa, put some tickets to France in my stocking so I might be able to next july.

  4. seldom seen

    a note to the loyal followers of RKP I had the privelege of riding with Padraig on this alpine trip. The beauty of the cols has been appropriately documented in words and images. What is less appreciated is Padraigs contribution to the trip of a lifetime. He deftly led our gruppo compacto through the flat and rolling transition stages. His choice of line on descents was excactly where one wanted to be, if only one could stay close enough to follow. On long climbs, he would set beautiful tempo recover over the summit, and begin driving on the descents. To get to ride in the throne room of the cycling gods is a treat, to ride there with Padraig an honor.

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